Spider mites on Juniper

[rbecker28]

My juniper has been looking sad for the past week so I did the paper check for mites. Unfortunately, I found them. What do I use on Juniper for mites. I just read in the tropical green sheets that soaps (my usual cure) should not be used on Juniper. Ced-O-Flora is supposed to be good for mites but I don't know how my Juniper will react. Any suggestions?

Kay in Florida (Zone 9)

[MatsuBonsai]

I've used a product called "Ultra-Fine" (http://www.entomology.umn.edu/cues/mnla/UFO.pdf) with great success.

For stronger applications I've also had success with a Bayer product, Bayer Advanced 3-in-1 (http://www.bayeradvanced.com/tree-shrub ... te-control).

[BillsBayou]

I used Kelthane with great success on two shimpaku this year. However, in the New Orleans area, I can no longer find Kelthane. I don't know why. Maybe you can find some in your area.

[plantmanky]

I've used a product called "Ultra-Fine" (http://www.entomology.umn.edu/cues/mnla/UFO.pdf) with great success.

For stronger applications I've also had success with a Bayer product, Bayer Advanced 3-in-1 (http://www.bayeradvanced.com/tree-shrub ... te-control).

I really like the Bayer granules which I apply in mid-spring before the little devils appear. It has done a superior job for me and its easy to apply. No mixing, getting the spray bottles out, just put the granules in and forget it. I hate mites and they just seem to love certain plants like Shimpaku Juniper and Azalea which they will eat alive if you let them. Some of the cultivars of Juniperus chinensis like "Heitz Columnaris" seem to be impervious to them, at least so far for me. If you use a liquid spray make sure and cover all of the foliage untill it drips off making sure to get to the inner foliage as well. You'll need to do this at 10 day intervals for at least 3 cycles to ensure that you kill the babies, as eggs are not affeted by the spray and will hatch and start eating again. That's the reason that I use systemic products for mites.

[catalystman]

As others have said, spider mites are a difficult problem and can quickly damage your trees. I have found that they love to occupy my landscape Hinoki's and other conifers and then travel to my bonsai. I have tried the systemics on my bonsai but either I haven't applied enough or my 'local' mites have become immune to it. Therefore, I started using an Isotox product (Bonine is the product manufacturer that I get at my local garden center and they don't call it Isotox but if you ask the center staff for an equivalent Isotox product, they can supply you with one). I mix up a large quantity and spray my landscape plants in addition to my bonsai. You have to thourghly cover the plants with the insecticde and have to do it every 7 to 10 days for at least 3 or 4 applications. Another thing I have tried, with some success if the infestation is not to high, is to use a garden hose with a spray nozzle, and spray your trees with plain water. I take the trees off their stands, put them on a bucket in the yard and spray them with a stream of plain water, making sure that I wash he undersides of the branches and the inner sections of the trees. This seems to help but generally only in the early part of the growing season - I guess when the population is very light.

Hope this helps

[plantmanky]

Here's something I posted in another thread that will hopefully solve the mite problem in the near future.

http://absbonsai.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=67

[lewisjk]

Increasingly, spider mites are resistant to pesticides, and the more we use, the more resistant they become. Some insects are like that.

However, spider mites can be controlled by the occasional HARD spray of water into the foliage (careful you don't spray the soil out of he pot!). They do not like moisture in the foliage.

Of course, too much moisture in the foliage too often is begging for a fungus infection, so once in a while is sufficient.

[plantmanky]

Increasingly, spider mites are resistant to pesticides, and the more we use, the more resistant they become. Some insects are like that.

However, spider mites can be controlled by the occasional HARD spray of water into the foliage (careful you don't spray the soil out of he pot!). They do not like moisture in the foliage.

Of course, too much moisture in the foliage too often is begging for a fungus infection, so once in a while is sufficient.

I agree wholeheartedly with your comments and use that as my first defence when I first notice them. I usually spray them with a good stream of water in the late afternoon with enough time left in the day to have the tree dry by nightfall. When that doesn't work and the infestation gets out of control I then have to resort to Chemicals which I only use when I have to.

[rbecker28]

Thank you for your suggestions for treating spider mites on Juniper. I have used 2 applications of Bayers Advanced and will apply another today. I used this first because I had it on hand for treating Chilie thrips on Buttonwood. It looks a little better but it's hard to tell for sure yet. I will definitely start using the water spray periodically to maybe avoid the problem in the future.
Kay in Florida Zone 9

[plantmanky]

Thank you for your suggestions for treating spider mites on Juniper. I have used 2 applications of Bayers Advanced and will apply another today. I used this first because I had it on hand for treating Chilie thrips on Buttonwood. It looks a little better but it's hard to tell for sure yet. I will definitely start using the water spray periodically to maybe avoid the problem in the future.
Kay in Florida Zone 9

Mites love to come out when the weather is hot and the atmospheric humidity level is on the dry side. Use that as a guide to using a water spraying.